to make : cutting table
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To see even more pictures of the process (which I put together more for my own reference) click here for a pop-up window with all the details. |
Having the right tools for any project is so very nice. Now that I'm starting to sew more I found I had the same problem as everyone else, lack of a work surface. The costume shops I worked in (in the distant past) were outfitted with brown paper covered cork surfaced tables. Big tables, usually made of 8' x 4' theatre platforms up on 3' plywood legs. They were perfect for laying out fabric, securing it down with draping pins (those heavy silver push pins) and tracing patterns. You can also jot notes directly onto the table top, have no fear when using those needle sharp tracing wheels. You don't have to worry about nicking the table (or your super sharp scissors). And whenever the brown paper gets ripped up or dirty you simple take it off and re-cover the table. I needed one, I had to have one of these tables for my very own. I happened to have a table top from Ikea I had been lugging from apartment to apartment with me for years. And so the plan was hatched.
to sum up
a bit more information
The only example of a costume shop cutting table I could find online is this A Wardrobe Cutting Table at the Canadian Institute for Theatre Technology. This article focuses on the construction of the table, with a lip around the table top and storage drawers at each end. "The top is made of a full sheet of 3/4 inch plywood, with the cork work surface glued to that." In this picture you can see the brown paper held down by masking tape. And 4' x 8' x 6mm bulletin-board cork is listed in the list of construction materials. I had the table top already - 31" wide by 59". I decided that adjustable legs from Ikea would be great - they have a few which are adjustable up to 36" or so. After some pathetic poking around Home Depot and office supply places, Lisa (thank you Lisa!) pointed out that The Cork Store sells rolls of cork in small amounts. This was exactly what I was looking for. I ordered BB13, which is an cheaper composite, 6.0mm thick, roughly 1/4". My table is just under five feet long, so I ordered 6' to have plenty. I wanted something to protect my pins from possibly getting dulled by hitting the table top underneath the cork. In hindsight I probably don't need this. At Home Depot we found hardboard (which is like pegboard without the holes), which came in 4' x 2' sheets for pretty cheap. We bought three to fit over the table. These cut very well using a utility knife. We screwed the hardboard to the table top. We bought contact cement, rubber cement's more serious older brother, to secure the cork to the hardboard. We used it along each end of the table, and on either side of the middle. I was worried about getting the ends of pins sticky so we left the middle of the cork without glue. Altogether this project took about 4 hours, with all of our bumbling around finding the right screws and tools. This doesn't count the two (!) trips to Ikea in the attempt to find suitable table legs. And best of all I have plenty of cork left over. And, I just realized, this would work very well as a blocking table for knitting projects. I could mark a grid on the paper, cover it with a sheet of clear plastic and just pin the item down. Now I just have to knit something which is big enough to require blocking. To see even more pictures of the process (which I put together more for my own reference) click here for a pop-up window with all the details.
what I would do differently Perhaps I wouldn't cut the cork exactly to size before attaching it to the table top. It makes sense to cut the cork with about 2" of overlap on all sides, gluing it down flat, then flipping the table top over (so the cork is underneath) and trimming off the excess. I didn't think about this until after the fact, of course. My table worked out fine but there was some worry about getting everything to line up nicely.
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This is so smart. I hate for my honey to spend money we don't have. And you provided the the answer. Thank-you...and Happy Holidays!!!:)
ANITA
Comment by anita — December 22, 2006 @ 5:42 pm
I am looking to purchase a roll of cork to use behind a dart board and can not seem it 1/2 inch thick. Can you help?
Comment by Linda — February 13, 2007 @ 8:09 am
I have used homasote (sp) in the past, do the pins sink into the cork far enough?
Comment by Kelly — July 12, 2007 @ 11:40 am
Kelly - I find it to work out great, but I'm not certain how much of my pins are biting into the homasote.
Comment by megan — July 12, 2007 @ 12:00 pm
Great idea for a cutting table! Seems like you could use a peice of cheep cotton or muslin in place of the paper, it might last a bit longer and you wouldn't have to wory about marking it up with pin holes. Of course you can't realy write on it then..
Comment by Jenn — July 24, 2007 @ 8:29 am
Jenn - Part of the appeal of a paper covered table is that you can slide large lengths of delicate fabric over top and arrange it flat so that the fabric isn't pulling one way or the other. That way you know your cut pieces won't be distorted. With a muslin topped table I'm afraid arranging a yard or more of fabric would be tricky.
Comment by megan — July 24, 2007 @ 8:36 am
When I was setting up a similar project my Dh suggested using a large piece of 2" thick foam insulation left over from a construction project. We wrapped it in butcher paper, and voila--super cheap, very easily replaceable, and definitely deep enough for draping pins. After 5+ years I replaced it for about $4, and still had enough foam left to make a huge quilt design board (about 6 ft by 4 ft).
Comment by Wendy — September 7, 2007 @ 9:41 pm
I'm trying to make the same table. Why do you have to wrap the table with the paper or muslin? Wouldn't a rotary cutter just cut right through the paper?
Comment by minemee — October 16, 2007 @ 6:08 am
Minemee - I have a large plastic cutting mat, I prefer the Olfa ones, which I pull out to use whenever I have to cut something. Otherwise, I use the table primarily to pin fabric in place while I'm marking it. This works well for slippery or very delicate fabrics that shift around quite a lot.
Comment by megan — October 16, 2007 @ 7:45 am
Folks in my studio ( aka the utility room but it's got windows, built in shelves and a cement floor that I can't ruin) I have 2 found pieces of hard wood that my dad made into tables. They are supported by the wall with a hinge on one end and 2 lengths of chain hung from the rafters at the other. I can disconnect them drop the tables down when I don't need them. This has not happened yet though....
Since they are up against the wall cutting large fabrics was a challenge- even with O Weights. That is until Dad came up with an idea of attaching a smooth copper rod to the wall just above one of the tables and about a 1/2 inch away from the wall. ( It will spin) Now I put the end of the fabric under the rod and pull it over - and the selvages line up with no problem - and they stay there since the rod holds the fabric in place! The chains by the way make a handy place to hang garment pieces on a hanger while you are working, or with clothes pins .
Comment by Snow Bird — November 9, 2007 @ 5:05 pm
[...] I’ve got a really great idea for the empty bedroom in my house. It’s going to be part craft room, part studio! I found an awesome diy craft/cutting table that I’d like to try out for sewing and making my jewelries. Then I’ll use the opposite wall to hang backdrops and setup lights and things. It’s going to be fabulous I tell ya. Just fabulous. [...]
Pingback by excited » kelleyroooooo — March 11, 2008 @ 1:51 pm
[...] http://www.notmartha.org/tomake/cuttingtable [...]
Pingback by Foil : Simple + Handmade » Add Height to Your Cutting Table — September 2, 2008 @ 11:27 am
I LOVE it. I had been thinking of something very similar, but the brown paper cover is a new idea for me. That would really help in moving projects along faster. Now I can sketch out and pin down my ideas to the same stable surface. Neat.
Comment by Nikki — November 12, 2008 @ 10:33 am
What a brilliant idea. Why don't we borrow from the pros more often??? Thanks for all the detail. I learned from this!
Comment by Kris — May 28, 2009 @ 11:11 pm