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	<title>Comments on: I&#8217;m knitting a sweater: being schooled and practicing techniques</title>
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	<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/</link>
	<description>(p.s. I now have comments, yay.)</description>
	<pubDate>Thu, 21 Aug 2008 03:16:23 +0000</pubDate>
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		<title>By: splatgirl</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-82365</link>
		<dc:creator>splatgirl</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Nov 2007 17:28:27 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Fantastic.  Thanks so much!  My neck edge thanks you :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Fantastic.  Thanks so much!  My neck edge thanks you :)</p>
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		<title>By: megan</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-82089</link>
		<dc:creator>megan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Nov 2007 00:38:11 +0000</pubDate>
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		<description>Splatgirl - The tutorial she has &lt;a href="http://www.siviaharding.com/tubular.html" rel="nofollow"&gt;here&lt;/a &gt; is not what I do, I do something a bit more simple. I used &lt;a href="http://autoscopia.com/amelia/archives/2005/11/tubular_cast_on.html" rel="nofollow"&gt;this tutorial for 1x1 cast on&lt;/a&gt; at My Fashionable Life and altered it like so:

In the directions linked above, step 2. says, essentially, purl the first stitch, then pull up a stitch from below and knit it, purl another stitch, then pull up and knit a stitch, continue doing that.

For 2x2 tubular cast on I purl the first two stitches, then pull up and knit one, then pull up and knit another, then I purl two more stitches, and so on. I've found that you you *must* start with two purl stitches or the cast on edge will turn out poorly.

I know you can fudge it a little bit. For the last two sweaters I've slipped in a knit 3, or maybe a purl 3, somewhere in the middle to match the sweater's 3x1-2x2-3x1 ribbing. Tragically, I have forgotten the details of how I did this, but I have notes I'll return to if I do a tutorial page.

If you end up with one last stitch at the end, shown in the My Fashionable Life tutorial, you can leave it as long as you come back and catch that loop with the tail of the yarn or when seaming. I've done this too.

The 2x2 cast on edge will not be as stretchy as a 1x1 cast on edge. Mine has stretched out and stayed that way, but I think it still looks good and it doesn't appear splayed, and it feels tidy when you're wearing the sweater. That said, I really like the bumpy side out for long tail cast on for ribbing, but it wasn't feasible with the Cotton Ease which splits terribly when you attempt long tail cast on for something as large as the body of a sweater.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Splatgirl - The tutorial she has <a href="http://www.siviaharding.com/tubular.html" rel="nofollow">here</a> is not what I do, I do something a bit more simple. I used <a href="http://autoscopia.com/amelia/archives/2005/11/tubular_cast_on.html" rel="nofollow">this tutorial for 1x1 cast on</a> at My Fashionable Life and altered it like so:</p>
<p>In the directions linked above, step 2. says, essentially, purl the first stitch, then pull up a stitch from below and knit it, purl another stitch, then pull up and knit a stitch, continue doing that.</p>
<p>For 2x2 tubular cast on I purl the first two stitches, then pull up and knit one, then pull up and knit another, then I purl two more stitches, and so on. I've found that you you *must* start with two purl stitches or the cast on edge will turn out poorly.</p>
<p>I know you can fudge it a little bit. For the last two sweaters I've slipped in a knit 3, or maybe a purl 3, somewhere in the middle to match the sweater's 3x1-2x2-3x1 ribbing. Tragically, I have forgotten the details of how I did this, but I have notes I'll return to if I do a tutorial page.</p>
<p>If you end up with one last stitch at the end, shown in the My Fashionable Life tutorial, you can leave it as long as you come back and catch that loop with the tail of the yarn or when seaming. I've done this too.</p>
<p>The 2x2 cast on edge will not be as stretchy as a 1x1 cast on edge. Mine has stretched out and stayed that way, but I think it still looks good and it doesn't appear splayed, and it feels tidy when you're wearing the sweater. That said, I really like the bumpy side out for long tail cast on for ribbing, but it wasn't feasible with the Cotton Ease which splits terribly when you attempt long tail cast on for something as large as the body of a sweater.</p>
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		<title>By: splatgirl</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-82064</link>
		<dc:creator>splatgirl</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Tue, 06 Nov 2007 23:18:19 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-82064</guid>
		<description>Hi Megan.  Did you ever say how you modified the tubular cast on for k2p2?  I found a decent tutorial (Sivia Harding's) but it has you crossing stitches to get from 1x rib to 2x and it ends up not looking nearly as nice as the second swatch you show in this post.
Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Megan.  Did you ever say how you modified the tubular cast on for k2p2?  I found a decent tutorial (Sivia Harding's) but it has you crossing stitches to get from 1x rib to 2x and it ends up not looking nearly as nice as the second swatch you show in this post.<br />
Thanks!</p>
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		<title>By: megan</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-49252</link>
		<dc:creator>megan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 30 Jun 2007 18:59:27 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-49252</guid>
		<description>Bonne Marie - Thanks so much for the notes!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Bonne Marie - Thanks so much for the notes!</p>
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		<title>By: Bonne Marie</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-49207</link>
		<dc:creator>Bonne Marie</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 30 Jun 2007 12:33:13 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-49207</guid>
		<description>Hi Meagan, I am thrilled you are making a Ribby for your first sweater. Fantastique!

I think you are on track so far with your swatch, etc. Marnie - that Excel thingie sounds intriguing - would you email me the setup? (stashout@gmail.com)

The Ribby Cardi dimensions from the pattern stats are finished measurements as is, which means there is no ease built in. The sweater was measured slightly stretched.

Fit is such an individual preference -- some folks like their clothes very snug; others like to wear this over a shirt or Tee and need a little *breathing* room.

Since we are all so unique, my everlasting rule of thumb is to use a favorite existing sweater that fits you well [out of similar yarn, if possible] from your wardrobe as a template you can refer to for comparison -- this really keeps me on track throughout the entire project (read more here: http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall03/FEATbonnetric.html )

For myself (36" bust) I made the 38" sweater. Your mileage might vary.

If all the adjustment math is getting tiresome, I vote with the commenter from your initial post about going down a needle size and getting the spot-on stitch gauge before you start. I agree with Jane that the needle size suggested by any pattern is just a starting point.

I almost always have to go down 1-2 sizes when knitting cotton to get the same gauge.

Please email me with any questions - I am at your service, m'lady!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Hi Meagan, I am thrilled you are making a Ribby for your first sweater. Fantastique!</p>
<p>I think you are on track so far with your swatch, etc. Marnie - that Excel thingie sounds intriguing - would you email me the setup? (stashout@gmail.com)</p>
<p>The Ribby Cardi dimensions from the pattern stats are finished measurements as is, which means there is no ease built in. The sweater was measured slightly stretched.</p>
<p>Fit is such an individual preference -- some folks like their clothes very snug; others like to wear this over a shirt or Tee and need a little *breathing* room.</p>
<p>Since we are all so unique, my everlasting rule of thumb is to use a favorite existing sweater that fits you well [out of similar yarn, if possible] from your wardrobe as a template you can refer to for comparison -- this really keeps me on track throughout the entire project (read more here: <a href="http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall03/FEATbonnetric.html" rel="nofollow">http://knitty.com/ISSUEfall03/FEATbonnetric.html</a> )</p>
<p>For myself (36" bust) I made the 38" sweater. Your mileage might vary.</p>
<p>If all the adjustment math is getting tiresome, I vote with the commenter from your initial post about going down a needle size and getting the spot-on stitch gauge before you start. I agree with Jane that the needle size suggested by any pattern is just a starting point.</p>
<p>I almost always have to go down 1-2 sizes when knitting cotton to get the same gauge.</p>
<p>Please email me with any questions - I am at your service, m'lady!</p>
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		<title>By: Emily Cartier</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-49054</link>
		<dc:creator>Emily Cartier</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 29 Jun 2007 15:26:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-49054</guid>
		<description>Cotton yarns vary. Some of them will grow width wise, some will grow length wise, some don't grow at all and some shrink. Some cotton yarns also have a fair bit of memory, others don't. So it helps to know what sort of cotton yarn you have *before* you start to panic. Swatching helps because you get a feel for the fabric you're producing and can make decisions based on how it behaves. Smush it, stretch it, hang it up with weights... there are all kinds of things you can try to get a feel for what will happen with the finished sweater. 

The reason I suggested checking row gauge before and after washing is I've had exciting experiences with a cotton yarn that shrank vertically on the first washing. The row gauge went from around 8 rows to the inch to something like 12 rows to the inch. Fortunately, I wanted a cropped sweater. The planned short sleeves ended up as cap sleeves tho :).

It's going to come out wearable, because you did swatch carefully. So don't worry too much about perfect this time. I always find things I wish I'd done differently in projects.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Cotton yarns vary. Some of them will grow width wise, some will grow length wise, some don't grow at all and some shrink. Some cotton yarns also have a fair bit of memory, others don't. So it helps to know what sort of cotton yarn you have *before* you start to panic. Swatching helps because you get a feel for the fabric you're producing and can make decisions based on how it behaves. Smush it, stretch it, hang it up with weights... there are all kinds of things you can try to get a feel for what will happen with the finished sweater. </p>
<p>The reason I suggested checking row gauge before and after washing is I've had exciting experiences with a cotton yarn that shrank vertically on the first washing. The row gauge went from around 8 rows to the inch to something like 12 rows to the inch. Fortunately, I wanted a cropped sweater. The planned short sleeves ended up as cap sleeves tho :).</p>
<p>It's going to come out wearable, because you did swatch carefully. So don't worry too much about perfect this time. I always find things I wish I'd done differently in projects.</p>
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		<title>By: megan</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48935</link>
		<dc:creator>megan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jun 2007 20:39:51 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48935</guid>
		<description>Michelle - Oh gosh, I'm glad I have not cast on yet.

Anita - I will. I got the 1x1 tubular bind off (sewn bind off) down ok last night, but research is showing that a 2x2 tubular bind off is either impossible, or done one of two ways in Knitting Tips and Trade Secrets.

Amanda - Thanks, I'll be sure to check it. After looking at the knit-along site and spotting a too-short sweater I'm going to double check.

elijor - Thanks, that site isn't showing up much information but these comments altogether have made me need to research the hell outta this thing before I start.

Michele and bunchkin - Yes, my head hurts now.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Michelle - Oh gosh, I'm glad I have not cast on yet.</p>
<p>Anita - I will. I got the 1x1 tubular bind off (sewn bind off) down ok last night, but research is showing that a 2x2 tubular bind off is either impossible, or done one of two ways in Knitting Tips and Trade Secrets.</p>
<p>Amanda - Thanks, I'll be sure to check it. After looking at the knit-along site and spotting a too-short sweater I'm going to double check.</p>
<p>elijor - Thanks, that site isn't showing up much information but these comments altogether have made me need to research the hell outta this thing before I start.</p>
<p>Michele and bunchkin - Yes, my head hurts now.</p>
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		<title>By: bunchkin</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48927</link>
		<dc:creator>bunchkin</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jun 2007 19:09:40 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48927</guid>
		<description>If this is a ribbed sweater and you don't want it to be baggy, you should use negative ease.  Meaning subtract 2 inches from your chest measurement to figure out what size to make.  Especially with cotton.  Makes your head hurt doesn't it?</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If this is a ribbed sweater and you don't want it to be baggy, you should use negative ease.  Meaning subtract 2 inches from your chest measurement to figure out what size to make.  Especially with cotton.  Makes your head hurt doesn't it?</p>
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		<title>By: Michele</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48924</link>
		<dc:creator>Michele</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jun 2007 19:04:59 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48924</guid>
		<description>I'm far from an expert knitter, but my understanding is that you want negative ease for a ribbed garment, especially if it is knit in cotton. Cotton tends to grow a lot width-wise.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I'm far from an expert knitter, but my understanding is that you want negative ease for a ribbed garment, especially if it is knit in cotton. Cotton tends to grow a lot width-wise.</p>
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		<title>By: elijor</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48921</link>
		<dc:creator>elijor</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jun 2007 18:43:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48921</guid>
		<description>Before you start the sweater I think you might want to try and find others like Maria who have knit this sweater or possibly try contacting the creator. Generally knits do not require much ease and many of them actually look better with negative ease. I believe this is especially true with something that is ribbed. Of course it also depends on what you will typically wear under it since it is a cardi.

There is a KAL here http://ribbycardikal.blogspot.com/  there haven't been many posts lately but it might prove beneficial anyway. Also there are quite a few posted on craftster.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Before you start the sweater I think you might want to try and find others like Maria who have knit this sweater or possibly try contacting the creator. Generally knits do not require much ease and many of them actually look better with negative ease. I believe this is especially true with something that is ribbed. Of course it also depends on what you will typically wear under it since it is a cardi.</p>
<p>There is a KAL here <a href="http://ribbycardikal.blogspot.com/" rel="nofollow">http://ribbycardikal.blogspot.com/</a>  there haven't been many posts lately but it might prove beneficial anyway. Also there are quite a few posted on craftster.</p>
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		<title>By: Amanda</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48916</link>
		<dc:creator>Amanda</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jun 2007 18:01:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48916</guid>
		<description>If the length is not long enough for you it is simple to add additional length to sweaters. Just make sure to do it before the armhole decreases start on the body.  Usually in a straight knitting part where there isn't any shaping if possible.  I am nearly 6ft tall and a size small... so I am always adding at least 2 or 3 inches to my sweaters and sleeves.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>If the length is not long enough for you it is simple to add additional length to sweaters. Just make sure to do it before the armhole decreases start on the body.  Usually in a straight knitting part where there isn't any shaping if possible.  I am nearly 6ft tall and a size small... so I am always adding at least 2 or 3 inches to my sweaters and sleeves.</p>
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		<title>By: Anita</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48915</link>
		<dc:creator>Anita</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jun 2007 17:56:03 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48915</guid>
		<description>I'm having a hard time grasping the tubular bind off as well. Please post any tricks when you finally figure it out.  ;-)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I'm having a hard time grasping the tubular bind off as well. Please post any tricks when you finally figure it out.  ;-)</p>
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		<title>By: Michelle</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48914</link>
		<dc:creator>Michelle</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jun 2007 17:53:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48914</guid>
		<description>As I understand it you don't have to add ease to your measurements for every single garmet.  It all depends on whether or not the pattern designer built ease into the measurements or not.  Unfortunately not every designer makes ease measurements transparent.  There is some math and pattern reading you can do to figure this out, but I'm not well-versed in it.

Don't forget to do a search for other peoples experiences knitting the sweater.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>As I understand it you don't have to add ease to your measurements for every single garmet.  It all depends on whether or not the pattern designer built ease into the measurements or not.  Unfortunately not every designer makes ease measurements transparent.  There is some math and pattern reading you can do to figure this out, but I'm not well-versed in it.</p>
<p>Don't forget to do a search for other peoples experiences knitting the sweater.</p>
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		<title>By: megan</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48909</link>
		<dc:creator>megan</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jun 2007 17:19:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48909</guid>
		<description>Anna - Thanks for that tip!

Marnie - Thank you, I'm a dunce at Excel, so I'll contact you if I get a desire to set it up to use.

Maria - This makes sense, I think I'm being a little conservative on the sizing already. I was a little afraid that I was going to be making something a little small, so your experience makes me feel better about the size I've chosen to make (the 36" finished measurement, which will be closer to 40" with my gauge).</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Anna - Thanks for that tip!</p>
<p>Marnie - Thank you, I'm a dunce at Excel, so I'll contact you if I get a desire to set it up to use.</p>
<p>Maria - This makes sense, I think I'm being a little conservative on the sizing already. I was a little afraid that I was going to be making something a little small, so your experience makes me feel better about the size I've chosen to make (the 36" finished measurement, which will be closer to 40" with my gauge).</p>
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		<title>By: maria</title>
		<link>http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48906</link>
		<dc:creator>maria</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Thu, 28 Jun 2007 16:36:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.notmartha.org/archives/2007/06/28/im-knitting-a-sweater-being-schooled-and-practicing-techniques/#comment-48906</guid>
		<description>I made that sweater, to the size I normally wear (and it came out with the correct finished dimensions), and it's a little too big for me. I think maybe the finished size is calculated with the ribbing laying flat, not stretched at all. I started a second one the size down from that, and it was working out to be a better fit.

Of course your experience may be different; this is just what happened to me. :)</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I made that sweater, to the size I normally wear (and it came out with the correct finished dimensions), and it's a little too big for me. I think maybe the finished size is calculated with the ribbing laying flat, not stretched at all. I started a second one the size down from that, and it was working out to be a better fit.</p>
<p>Of course your experience may be different; this is just what happened to me. :)</p>
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